Throwback Thursday: The Red Ribbon that Binds

“If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving,” says Miles Raymond in the 2004 film Sideways. It’s a line meant to provoke laughter, but all it should prompt among people familiar with the award-winning merlot of the East End is a rather significant serving of pity. The poor guy, as we intimately know, is missing out. And members of the Long Island Merlot Alliance know it, too.

2008 Campania Rosso, Waters Crest Winery, $49.99

If you asked Jim Waters, he’d never agree that he can spin a silk purse from a sow’s ear; what he might say is that the collective efforts of good, hardworking vineyard managers and winemakers make for many happy surprises in the sometimes nail-biter vintages of eastern Long Island.