Beer and Wine and Wine and Beer

      2008 Campania Rosso, Waters Crest Winery, $49.99

      If you asked Jim Waters, he’d never agree that he can spin a silk purse from a sow’s ear; what he might say is that the collective efforts of good, hardworking vineyard managers and winemakers make for many happy surprises in the sometimes nail-biter vintages of eastern Long Island.