Edible Eat of the Week: Every Single Kind of Pasta at Scarpetta Beach in Montauk

It’s beginning to look a lot like pasta. • Photo courtesy of Scarpetta Beach

The Eat: Every single pasta.

The Place: Scarpetta Beach at Gurney’s in Montauk.

The Story: December is pasta season. Forget what you’ve heard about every other seasonally appropriate food. Pasta is the only player when it comes to the bone-chilling final month of the year. And I am totally here for it.

It’s hard to decide on which pasta is the best pasta at Scarpetta Beach. Luckily, no one’s forcing you to decide. The five handmade options on the restaurant’s slim-but-smart menu are all winter warmers. Come with a crowd and order all of them. Or sit at the bar solo, and order… all of them? I don’t know. Maybe I’m the wrong person to ask. I’ve never met a pasta I didn’t like.

The tomato-basil spaghetti is a seasonless classic. Enriched with a knob of butter, the sauce is glossy and coats every noodle. One ravioli comes stuffed with short ribs and bone marrow, a marriage made in foodie heaven. The only thing I like more than eating bone marrow is eating bone marrow with an attendant carbohydrate. So this dish has me covered.

On a recent night, I sampled, too, a ravioli that was stuffed with both cabbage and potato, a carb on carb crime that was not criminal in the least. Bathed in a sweet and sour Port reduction, the dish took my breath away. It’s a vegetarian option, for those who don’t eat meat, or for those looking to stay cozy while eating a little less of it.

And so, take full advantage of Montauk in the season of no crowds (and keep in mind the following: Scarpetta Beach hosts a local’s night every Wednesday in the offseason, in which they offer 30 percent off of food and 40 percent off of drinks). For those prices, you can eat a lot more ravioli.

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