North Fork Roasting Co.

The smell of coffee blankets Southold and the crowds come.

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Jessica Dunne, left, and Jennilee Morris at their new coffee shop/roastery.

Jennilee Morris and Jessica Dunne have opened a sweet, funky little coffee shop on the Main Road in Southold, and they’re on a mission to spread the gospel of locally roasted artisanal coffee, one convert at a time. It’s working: “I just sent a bag of our House Blend to my cousin in Austin,” says Dunne. “He said, ‘All my life I’ve been drinking what I now know to be burnt crap. Thanks for ruining me!’”

It’s true, Morris says, once you know good coffee, there’s no go- ing back. Morris, an Institute of Culinary Education graduate, fell in love with roasting coffee a few years ago while managing Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck. That’s where she and Dunne, a Suffolk Community College culinary school grad who specializes in pastries, became friends and first started dreaming up the business. They opened North Fork Roasting Co., a coffee shop/roastery in mid-February, and the place has been buzzing ever since. On a sunny late-winter day, Morris and Dunne are busy serving up coffee, tea, hot chocolate and warm muffins to about a dozen people sitting at the tables and on couches chatting. In a designated quiet space to the right of the stairs, a few people work on laptops and tablets.

eddy logo“We were so excited the day we opened,” says Dunne, “and this is just what we hoped for. We’re so happy the community is interested in what we’re doing and has given us such a warm welcome.”

The space is fun and laid-back, with hand-sewn coffee-bag burlap curtains, a corrugated metal coffee bar, an old record player and lots of shiny, high-end coffee equipment, including an 800-pound roaster taking pride of place on the enclosed porch. The smell of roasting coffee beans wafting through the hamlet will no doubt help grow a following in an area where all things artisanal are taking root.

“We have a lot of friends who are involved in the food and wine industries, and local businesses, the whole culture of the North Fork,” Morris says. “We want to create a space where people can just hang out, maybe get a little work done and drink some great coffee.” They also sell online through their website.

The smell of roasting coffee beans wafting through the hamlet will no doubt help grow a following in an area where all things artisanal are taking root.

North Fork Roasting Co.’s flagship coffee is the House Blend, made of beans from Colombia, Guatemala and Ethiopia. A fresh pot awaits, so we do a little informal “cupping,” or coffee-tasting. It’s a medium-bodied, lighter-roast blend that seems pleasantly smooth and well balanced, with a soft, almost creamy finish. Coffee lingo has its own terminology, of course, but it’s similar enough to winespeak that I can make sense of it.

“It’s like a city roast, a little lighter,” says Morris. “You taste more of what the bean has to offer than a heavy roast, which I think can really ruin the more deli- cate flavors.” Roasting and blending coffee is a culinary art, just like winemaking, she says, and there’s a growing appreciation for artisanal coffee that adheres to the philosophy of what is being called “seed to cup.” There’s also a trend toward lighter styles that show off a broader range of characteristics, just like in wine.

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We next try an Ethiopian Arabica bean called Sidamo. Dunne brews it up on a fancy little gravity-brewing contraption, and we taste. There’s an al- most floral nose, a pleasant, bright citrus note, with quite a lot going on in the mid-palate, including a hint of chocolate, and a clean, lightly tannic finish. “This is an excellent example of roasting a coffee to its full potential,” says Morris, adding they took great pains to roast these beans just so.

This is fun, and really interesting. They should offer coffee flights! Maybe they will, they say, laughing. They also want to do a cold brew on tap; cold brewing takes up to 18 hours, and the Ethiopian bean might be a good candidate for that style.

We finish with something rare and special, coffee from the Misozi-Kopaki fair-trade cooperative in western Rwanda. There’s a distinctive “barnyard” earthiness to this one, rich and deep. It’s got a strong, almost steely character: If it were wine, it would be a good cab. A coffee like this, from a small region, will show different qualities each harvest, just like wine. “You can find something like this that you absolutely love, and then once it’s gone, you can never get exactly the same thing again,” says Morris. Great artisanal coffee, it seems, can be in steady supply as the product of thoughtful blending and careful roasting, or, according to Nature’s whims, it can be as ephemeral as the aromatic steam rising from our cups. Either way, count me in; I’m now a slightly over-caffeinated believer.

The folks at North Fork Roasting Co. highly recommend A Film About Coffee, a new documentary from director Brandon Loper and production company Avocados & Coconuts. Watch the trailer.

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Gwendolen Groocock is the editor of the Greenport Guide, and writes about food, wine, travel and mommyhood from her home on the North Fork.