A Revival of Brunch at Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton

After several years break, Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton started serving brunch again on Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. The menu, like their dinner menu, focuses on fresh local ingredients and using as much as possible from their backyard garden. With the signature Nick & Toni’s Italian slant and updates on classics. The menu includes a section that leans breakfast and another that leans lunch. The dish that seemed to perfectly meld both was a spin on pasta carbonara, which the New York Times recently suggested as an alternative for turkey on Thanksgiving (?). It was made with bucatini, sautéed red onions, guanciale, which is ubiquitous on menus of late for a good reason, all topped with an over-easy fried organic egg that, once broken, turned into a creamy sauce. Also for lunch was Anson Mills creamy polenta with rock shrimp, applewood smoked bacon and a poached organic egg.

The restaurant’s wood-burning pizza oven is put to use turning out pizzetti, thin, crisp square pizzas with traditional toppings–Margherita, mushrooms and four cheeses–as well as the brunchy pancetta, braised greens, fontina and a friend organic egg and a pizza topped with mascarpone, house-cured salmon, red onions and capers. Dishes range from $16 for pizzetti, $14 for granola and pancakes to $22 for hangar steak and eggs or a pan-roasted cod with arugula, Balsam Farm fingerling potatoes, picholine olives and chick peas.

The room is bright and sunny and the staff always professional.