Love Lane Gets a Market

local and seasonal items sit alongside high-quality
imported artisanal products—olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, ghee,
dried porcini mushrooms, salt-packed capers and anchovies, and
salami, lardo and pancetta from Salumeria Biellese in Manhattan.

At Michael and Patti Avella’s new European-style market in Mattituck, the yellow-pine floor is recycled from a farm in Connecticut, the tin ceiling is stamped from original dies and the window frames are reclaimed from a 1920s industrial building. Mike and Patti dreamed of a food emporium for years, and so when Michael Bourguigon, owner of the Mattituck Village Market, decided to sell his business last year, it didn’t take them long to make a decision.
They closed on the circa-1928 property in November 2010, renovated with the help of architect Chris Smith (who designed Nobu and Dylan Prime in New York), and officially opened this past October.
CIA-trained chef and butcher John Nordin, who has worked for both Tom Colicchio and Todd English, further bolsters the team. Mike’s goal is to create a welcoming place for “adventurous home cooks.” To that end, local and seasonal items sit alongside high-quality imported artisanal products—olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, ghee, dried porcini mushrooms, salt-packed capers and anchovies, and salami, lardo and pancetta from Salumeria Biellese in Manhattan. There are pizzas cooking in a wood-burning oven, sushi prepared every morning by a Japanese chef, homemade sausages, soups and sandwiches. Next spring, they are planning to add a donut machine and a Japanese noodle station. Demand has been greater than the supply of grassfed beef from nearby McCall’s Ranch and Vineyard’s herd of Charolais cattle. Mike says he is “unable to keep up with it,” and will be adding beef from a grassfed Hereford herd in Rhode Island to supplement.

Another strong seller is the Crescent Farms duck. In the style of a European open-air market—Mike lived in Italy for many years—the ducks are steamed for half an hour before being turned on a rotisserie over baskets of herb-and-garlic tossed potatoes that soak up the luscious drippings. D’Artagnan free-range chickens are on the  grill, too.

On a lovely fall Saturday afternoon, my husband and I stopped in for duck, potatoes and roasted garlic. We added some fresh greens from a local farm stand for a quick salad, opened a bottle of rosé from Croteaux vineyards and had one of the best dinners of early autumn. (Note: Call ahead for beef to avoid disappointment. Not only is supply limited, reservations determine the way beef is cut.)

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