Local Asparagus, When You Need More Than Vinaigrette

I’ve eaten a lot of asparagus so far this year, but I always make it the same way. I steam it, then while it’s still hot pour a homemade vinaigrette over, with careful attention to the tips, which soak up the most of it, and then sprinkle chopped shallots on top. By dinner time, it’s a nice room temp salad.

It’s good, but it’s got nothing on the asparagus chef Gerry Hayden is putting on plates at North Fork Table and Inn in Southold, where they are celebrating Edible’s Eat Drink Local week.

So, the asparagus is from Wickham‘s farm in Cutchogue. The skin is scraped off with a potato peeler (something I’m too lazy to bother with) and the spears are laid in criss-cross on the plate.

He squirts some foam made from lemon-infused labne (which I learned last night is another word for Greek, or strained, yogurt) tangy and deliciously fresh, then there’s pork, cured Mangalitsa salty with a hint of gameyness. What goes well with bacon? Eggs. So it’s all topped off with a sunny-side up quail egg.

Take a back seat, vinaigrette