Edible Brooklyn

Notable Edibles:
Culling the Herd

First published in the Winter 2012 edition of Edible East End

Comment | December 8, 2011 | By | Photographs by Randee Daddona

Whether you think of them as Bambi or as car-wrecking, shrub-eating nuisances, the fact is there are too many deer on the East End of Long Island. And from October 1 through January 31, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation declares hunting season. (The rules for Suffolk County allow bowhunting for the entire season; shotguns are allowed in January but only with a special permit and on weekdays.)
Ethical hunters, as DEC officer, hunter and Greenport resident Tom Gadomski puts it, however, do not kill deer for sport. In fact they do not use the term “kill”; they prefer “harvest” because whatever deer they take they make sure does not go to waste.

The town of Southold recognized this dilemma, says Jeff Standish, the deputy director of the department of public works, and last year rented a refrigerated truck and put it behind the community center on Peconic Lane. The idea was to have a place where hunters could drop off harvested deer they could not use themselves. The deer, under the auspices of the New York–based Venison Donation Coalition, are then transported to a butcher who breaks down the animals and donates the meat to soup kitchens. The coalition has been active since 1999 and has processed nearly 340 tons of venison since that time.
In the case of Southold, last year the town collected 162 deer. Over the winter, Standish says the town bought a used refrigerated box, overhauled it, and now have a permanent drop-off site. Most of the harvested deer go to Fish and Wildlife Unlimited Taxidermy in Oakdale for butchering, but residents, who can fill out a form, take some of it. Standish says one woman, who has a dog with food allergies that can only eat venison, paid to have one butchered to use for dog food.
The drop-off also accepts roadkill, and Gadomski has donated deer illegally taken by hunters without the DEC-approved tags that indicate a valid hunting license.
Normally, says Gadomski, he would harvest maybe three deer per year, one for himself and others for friends, which he butchers himself. But now that he knows the meat will go to good use, he will harvest up to seven per year. Some of the take are big does or bucks, but Gadomski says he is seeing an increasing number
of smaller deer. “They’re not eating as well.”

 

Recipe from the New York
Conservation Officer’s Cookbook
Lori’s Paprika Venison
1 c. sliced onion
1 clove minced garlic
¾ c. ketchup
1 T. Worcestershire
1 T. brown sugar
Salt
2 t. paprika
½ t. dry mustard
¾ c. water
¾ c. white wine
2 lbs. venison (scraps work well)
Sauté venison, onions and garlic until
venison is brown. In bowl, stir until
smooth: ketchup, Worcestershire,
sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, water
and wine. Add to venison. Cover and
simmer until meat is cooked. Add
flour to thicken if desired.
Serve over egg noodles.
From Colonel D. W. Brewer, Central
Office, Albany. (Officer Gadomski
marked this as “very good” in his copy.)

About Eileen M. Duffy

Eileen M. DuffyEileen M. Duffy, Edible East End’s deputy editor, holds a diploma in wine and spirits from the International Wine Center and has been writing about food and wine on the East End since 2003.

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