|
Look in your backyard. There's a burgeoning wine country, chefs
carving out a Long Island cuisine,
and farmers cooking artisanal potato chips. The East End is in the
midst of a food revolution, and we
hope that Edible East End can be your guide.
By celebrating the harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork, season
by season, we imagine Edible
becoming a gravitational center for a whole universe of food festivals,
culinary traditions, and new
food businesses.
We share in a long history of farmers, fishers, poets, and happy
eaters moved by freshly dug steamers,
ears of sweet corn still warm from the field, Long Island duck,
and the East End's blissful culinary
experience. (This experience has appealed to us since we were kids,
and still does today: Stephen is a
veteran of the restaurant biz and surfcaster, and Brian is a food
writer and home gardener.)
Of course, we're not reinventing the wheel. Every potato barn and
flounder fyke is evidence that an
edible awareness was once more second nature than it is today. Where
else can the simple act of raking
a clam or digging a potato tap into hundreds of years of history?
But this history is also vanishing as baymen sell their dories,
as farms are paved, and as old cooks
pass away without passing on their recipes. Not exactly the ghost
at the feast, local fare still doesn't
enjoy the prominent place at our tables it deserves.
We don't harbor any illusions that things will return to some Golden
Age that never existed. Yes,
Long Island potato farmers fed the Allied troops in World War II,
and until the early 1980s, the
Peconic Bay Scallop enjoyed an international reputation. Further
back, an appreciation of local cuisine
was more necessity than choice.
The East End may never again be a breadbasket for the nation or
even the Northeast, but there's no
doubt it could be a breadbasket for itself.
At a time when the global vending machine dazzles us with food
trucked several thousand miles
from the farm to our table, the best choice might be turning our
attention inward. Eating local means
fresher and tastier fare, embracing the beauty of our landscape,
and building a constellation of relationships
with farmers, fishers, winemakers, chefs, bakers, cheesemakers,
beekeepers, and our neighbors.
(Not to mention that eating local prevents sprawl, saves oil, and
even pleases the Department of
Homeland Security, since less food shipping makes the nation less
vulnerable to spikes in the price of
oil, transportation disruptions or large-scale food contamination.)
There's no reason to eat from the back of a trailer when you can
get it in your own backyard. We
choose to eat local because it's delicious, gratifying, and easier
than you think. And we're looking for
allies, since the East End's food heritage will only thrive because
all of us want it to. That might sound
idealistic. But it's also true.

Stephen Munshin, Publisher |

Brian Halweil, Editor |
|