RIVERHEAD—The village of Riverhead is known to residents as “downtown,” and the locale would be a non-destination if it weren’t for places like the aquarium, the public library, the Suffolk County offices and courts, the railroad and historical museums—and the town’s hardy group of restaurants. These eateries have endured despite the migration of hordes of locals to nearby Route 58, drawn by the allure of the sprawling big box stores strung along the rapidly developing retail artery.

Born in 1659 when a sawmill was built on the banks of the Peconic River, Riverhead was, as late as1825, still more of a settlement than a full-blown town. Though it boasted a gristmill and a tavern, the village, lamented a local pastor, was “a miserable hamlet.” By 1902, the Peconic’s channel had been deepened. A woolen factory, molding and planning mills, a soap factory, and fertilizer works sprouted in the area. Growth was so rapid, in fact, that the Village Improvement Society was busy working to maintain the town’s unspoiled charm.

But like other towns that have seen the arrival on their outskirts of large national retail chains, downtown Riverhead as a retail and dining destination is threatened with extinction. Those of us who grew up within driving distance of the County Seat—the biggest town on the North Fork, heavy on American Gothic, Victorian, and red brick architecture—did our pre-school shopping in Swezey’s and McCabe’s, maybe lunched at the vintage diner (still in operation!), and patronized Griffing’s hardware store, Dr. Goode’s office (our veterinarian,) and GLF (now Agway). Today, venerable Main Street is dotted with the empty store windows of some 20 establishments that were once filled with racks of clothing and stacks of office goods. Store owners are now waiting anxiously for the town board to create a plan that will bring foot traffic back to the street. Meanwhile, a dwindling band of local shopkeepers and a determined group of food establishments are keeping the town’s head above water. When it comes to restaurants, you can either go east or west on Main Street and choose from an array of appetizing options. There’s ethnic eats at Stop & Go and Wisla’s, classy fare at Michael’s and Tweeds, and undiscovered gems like the Farm Country Kitchen. Here are some of my favorites:

PARTOS
My first stop was Italian eatery and pizzeria, Partos, one building west of the corner of Roanoke and Main. I ordered pizza with sausage. It was dripping with cheese, aromatic and meaty, with a nice crisp crust. This flavorful pie makes warm and cozy Partos an easy place to recommend. Add local wines and a selection of pastas, local seafood, and entrées, and you’ve got a winning lunch or dinner. 12 West Main Street; 631.727.4828/9; partosrestaurant.com.

ATHENS GRILL
Diagonally across the street on the south side of Main is Athens Grill. The narrow vanilla-colored space holds only 10 tables. Expecting a “gyro joint,” I was amazed when I was handed a fat three-page menu. There are imported specialty cheeses, such as haloumi and kasseri. There are octopus and tarama dip, as well as numerous salads, wraps and pita sandwiches. The generous gyro was succulent and delicious and came with salad and Tzatziki sauce. Local calamari and shrimp, in an olive oil and balsamic reduction; broiled cod with avgolemono sauce; and lamb chops grilled with olive oil and lemon are some of the many Greek-themed dishes offered at this eatery. With side dishes like white asparagus, they’re priced at $20-.24. 33 East Main Street; 631.727.1301.

BAKER’S WORKSHOP CAFÉ AND BISTRO
Back on the north side of Main is the new culinary school extension of Suffolk Community College. Situated on the ground floor is the Baker’s Workshop Café and Bistro, a training ground for the aspiring chefs. The students, under the watchful eye of an instructor, deftly plate salads, wraps, quiches and desserts (most items are under $10), while customers seat themselves at round tables in the spacious contemporary space, or order to go. 20 East Main Street; 631.548.3750.

PECONIC BAKING COMPANY
I love the idea of lounging on a shady riverside bench, sharing some crumbs with the ducks and seagulls—especially if those crumbs hale from the year-old Peconic Baking Company on Osborne, a couple of blocks off West Main. In addition to the charmingly decorated miniature cakes ($5)—in flavors ranging from carrot to coconut—the bakery creates buttery yet tangy treats like lemon squares ($2.25), and a sinfully delicious almond cake ($3). What I’ll return for often is a luscious harvest-gold apple strudel ($3) that reminded me of the one that came out of my Viennese grandmother’s kitchen. The café serves wraps too ($5-6). And, there’s wireless Internet access for those who need to get some work done while downing Peconic Baking Company’s scrumptious sweets. 303 Osborne Avenue; 631.591.2931; fueledbyfrosting.com.

STOP & GO MINIMART AND WISLA’S POLISH DELI
Two other possibilities for impromptu picnics are a Spanish-soul food deli—the Stop & Go MiniMart—a few steps west of the Science Center, and nearby Wisla’s Polish Deli. At Stop & Go, you can order chewy, sweet dried boiled yucca and yellow or spicy red rice. All are meant to be consumed smothered with ladles of red beans, oxtails, tiny chicken gizzards, or baked chicken, prepared in a spicy and salty red sauce. The rice may also be topped with perfectly fried chunks of pork, or with brown gravy-doused pigs feet. There are also Guatamalan chichitos (translation “little dogs”); a tamale bulging with chopped chicken, wrapped in corn husk, and roasted; and a pupusa, filled with cheese, chopped roasted pork, and cracklings stuffed in a doughy pocket and fried. 55 West Main Street; 631.727.5482.

Riverhead’s Polishtown is just a few blocks north of Wisla’s Deli. Owner Stanley Cieslak scours Eastern Europe for candies, canned meats and vegetables. If you’re hungry for European sausage (Wisla’s stocks a huge array) or homemade Eastern European cooking, then Wisla’s is a must on any Riverhead food tour. Ukrainian borscht and other unusual soups are sold by the pint or quart ($1.50-$3.00). There are endless pans of Polish specialties, including stuffed cabbage ($1.70 each); hefty potato dumplings with meat; tubular cheese or meat crepes similar to blintzes; sauerkraut with kielbasa; pig knuckles; and of course, those signature Polish dumplings, pierogies, fried with onions. 125 West Main Street; 631.369.2102.

FARM COUNTRY KITCHEN
At the west end of town resides a relatively new lunch spot, the Farm Country Kitchen. Look for a blackboard at the curb on the south side of the road and a three-car parking lot perched over the river. Walk down a slate path that leads to the renovated white clapboard house with black doors. With any luck, you’ll be able to squeeze inside. The place is owned by Tom and Maria Carson who were in the restaurant business “up west” in Port Jefferson for years. The Farm Country Kitchen is a very different venture than the large, demanding operations the Carsons left behind when they decided to scale back and start their family. (Their six-year-old twin daughters are already avid “foodies.”) Tom does most of the cooking—all from “scratch” and often with locally grown ingredients. The menu, blackboard specials that change daily, is built around salads, paninis and wraps. Tom faxes menus to hundreds of customers—courthouse employees (he supplies the jury lunches), cops, lawyers’ and doctors’ offices—every morning. By noon he’s handing out meals—and he clearly knows his customers. “I have to stay in condition, so I watch what I eat,” says Det. Sgt. Dan Regini, when he stops by one day to pick up his salad, adding that the inventive mixes of greenery and other ingredients are “fantastic.” One that wins particular raves is the Carlena Salad—baby spinach, grilled flank steak, Gorgozola cheese, and mixed vegetables, enrobed in a wine dressing. It’s priced at $6.50 while a similar item with salmon is $8.75. 513 West Main Street; 631.369.6311.

SPICY’S BBQ
Celebrating its 30th anniversary, Spicy’s BBQ, helmed, along with a Bellport store, by owners Rick and Jim Stoner, resembles a neon-festooned Fifties soup can. The aroma of wings bubbling in cauldron of hot oil hits you when you walk in the door. Pitmaster Thermia Booker juggles the food, while Rick fields a constant stream of phone orders. I devoured a the 10-piece portion of “famous chicken wings” and never once questioned the adjective “famous” ($5.93). Barbecued pork ribs with Spicy’s own tangy hot and spicy sauce, served with collard greens, macaroni salad and corn bread, were most gratifying ($8.99). {can you describe this some other way than “delicious,” e.g. sweet, spicy, smoky, succulent, rich, buttery, tangy, etc.) So was an order of mac and cheese. There’s chopped beef and pork BBQ on a bun ($4.39), and a half of a deep-fried chicken ($7.99). For dessert, there’s sweet potato pie (honey-sweetened and spiked with cinnamon) created from the owner’s grandmother’s recipe. 225 West Main Street; 631.727.2781.

MICHAEL’S AT THE BOARDWALK
Michael's at the Boardwalk boasts a bistro-style menu that stresses locally available ingredients. Each night, the eatery offers two specials, such as wild striped bass or flat iron steak. Satur Farm greens are featured prominently as are East End wines. Other entrees include roast Crescent Farm Duck ($21), free range chicken pot pie ($16), a Black Angus burger ($11), and local fish. An elegantly plated three-course lunch is available for $9.95. and a prix fixe dinner is presented nightly for $21.95. Black bean soup, laced with a spidery ribbon of crème fraisch, was hearty and down-to-earth, a great choice for a cool spring day. On another visit, I enjoyed succulent slices of pork stacked on a mound of mashed yams; the porcine offering was garnished with cranberries, imparting a tart accent to the dish. 659 Main Street; 631-591-2710.

TWEED’S
Since 1896, Tweeds has been serving dinners to Riverhead citizens; today it’s where locals head when they’re in the mood for fine dining. Housed in the historic, renovated J.J Sullivan Hotel, Tweeds has retained much of its original decor—including a mounted stuffed bison trophy head that was felled by President Teddy Roosevelt. That’s in keeping with the menu, since Tweed’s features distinctive buffalo dishes from owner Ed Tuccio’s nearby North Quarter Farm. Tweed’s also relies for its dishes on local produce, seafood, fruits and wines. Chef Jeff Trujillo prepared my grilled bison kebab ($9), which is reminiscent of sirloin tip; it was enhanced by a semi-sweet oniony barbecue sauce. Charred outside, perfectly pink inside, the meat has more “tooth” than beef, since buffalo is so lean. Bison chili ($10) is probably the most popular dish on the menu, though bison rib eye ($31) also has its fans. Created with tiny black beans and ground bison, the chili—which I’ll return for often—is accompanied by sour cream, melted cheddar, guacamole and chips. I was also tempted by the rib eye (recommended by a regular at the bar), but I opted instead for an Aquebogue duck wrap ($26) The duck is from Crescent Farm and is rolled with Napa cabbage and crunchy fried onion; it’s served with crispy steak but tender fries. 17 East Main Street; 631.208.3151; tweedsrestaurant.com

CLIFF’S RENDEZVOUS
On the east end of town, locals crowd Cliff’s Rendezvous’ popular bar and dining area. Cliff and Joanie Saunders have owned and operated the establishment since the early ‘50s. One steady patron remarked that though he’s moved away from Riverhead he still visits the restaurant frequently for old time’s sake. Joanie cooks the earthy pudding-like baked clams ($6.50) and the chowders ($3.50 cup/$5 bowl) herself. If you go for nothing else, the thyme-accented red chowder (similar to the one my mom made from the “chowder clams” we dug out of the sand with our toes on weekends when we docked our boat at Great Gun Beach) is imparted with the local shore’s distinctive flavor and aroma. If you prefer white chowder, Joanie’s creamy, slightly peppery creamy soup is a treat. I don’t usually go for New England style chowder, but this version, consisting of clam juice, bits of potato, half-and-half, and chopped clams, was like going “native.” The marinated Porterhouse with homey mashed potatoes ($26.95) is served at the three Cliff’s restaurants—all of which are known for their marinated steaks as well as for their preparation of local seafood. 313 East Main Street; 631.727.6880.

DIGGER’S PUB
Believe it or not, Riverhead doesn’t roll up its sidewalks at 10 p.m. Digger O’Dell’s has dominated West Main’s lunch and dinner patrons for years. Along with half of Riverhead, I’ve enjoyed more steaks at this Irish Pub than I can count. Porterhouse ($31.99), sirloin ($19.99), and flat iron ($15.99), are served with salad and a baked potato, perfectly prepared to your taste, as is the succulent Prime Rib ($19.99). Pub specialties like corned beef and cabbage ($15.99) or fish and chips (made with a Guinness and Harp beer batter) are always reliable bets There are baked clams, mussels cooked in beer, soup, and sandwiches. All are available through the evening and on Thursday through Saturday nights when a rockin’ band or DJ heats up the place. And to add to the place’s luster, owners Stephen and Cheri do their best to support local farmers by purchasing local ingredients for their dishes. 58 West Main Street; 631.369.3200; diggerspub.net.

JERRY AND THE MERMAID
“We’re open ‘til four in the morning, so when everyone else closes up, we sober them up,” laughs Lynne Marie, the energetic hostess, waitress, and mainstay of Jerry and the Mermaid, another late-night option. Located adjacent to the marina, just past the aquarium, this casual eatery boasts a pleasant outside deck overlooking the water. Offerings of seafood, from stuffed clams ($6.50) to linguine and clam sauce ($13.95), as well as steamers, fried clams and a Mermaid Salad with marinated calamari and scungilli, ($11.50) dominate the menu. The steamer clams, in a garlic, wine, and butter bath, (priced seasonally) were outstanding; I’ll return often for them. 469 East Main Street; 631.727.8489.

DANOWSKI’S
Worthy of mention, though not in town, Danowski’s Fish Market does strictly cold takeout, but when you order bacon-wrapped scallops, crab cakes, or a lobster bake for your catered party, you can bet on it being right off the boat. This is why most of the local restaurateurs buy their seafood here. The market looks like a crumbling shack, but don’t be put off: most days you’ll have trouble finding a parking spot. 853 W. Main Street; 631-727-3990.