NOTABLE EDIBLES: Grape Expectations from Orwasher’s

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At a time when small bakers all over the country are considering their flour’s carbon footprint, Keith Cohen, formerly of Tribeca Oven, is upping the locavore ante. The new owner of Orwasher’s bakery on the Upper East Side recently gathered clusters of chardonnay grapes from Bridgehampton winery Channing Daughters to infuse a starter for a new line of breads.

Cohen hopes this place-based chemistry project will help update the venerable institution of rye, pumpernickel, challah and sandwich rolls Epicurious once named among the nation’s top 10 bakeries. “There aren’t just Eastern European immigrants coming to Orwasher’s,” he said. “Our customers are well traveled and have different tastes than they used to.”

Founded in 1916 by Abraham Orwasher in the thriving immigrant enclave of Yorkville, the bakery had a history of innovation. According to legend, the founder’s son, Louis, invented raisin pumpernickel bread during World War II, and took pride in using the same brick ovens and sourdough starter that his father used decades before.

But Cohen’s “wine bread”——a pain de campagne or country loaf made with rye, whole wheat and white flour——has deeper roots. Bakers in ancient wine-making cultures like Rome and North Africa used the ample yeast on grape skins to make dough rise. But among contemporary bakers, Cohen may have an exclusive.

“You can tell in about two seconds that this starter is different from the one we created at the bakery out of New York City air,” Cohen said, noting that the one made from Bridgehampton grapes is more vigorous and doesn’t demand as much feeding. “It smells like a winery,” he said. And the loaves are showing up in baskets at Gourmet Garage and other Gotham foodie haunts. The chef at the Sheridan Manhattan hotel tore a loaf in half and sniffed, remarking “it’s so complex it’s like wine.”

Channing Daughters winemaker Christopher Tracy, a former pastry chef whose viticultral riff on geographical flavor includes blends of randomly planted varietals, agreed that the bread had “hints of vitis,” and he wonders how it will compare with the bread Cohen is now making from a red-grape starter.

True to the medium, Cohen plans to recreate new starters with each new vintage. He’d like to get local wheat, too, but the state’s grain production is tiny compared to its grape yield. “Maybe New York could grow some ryes,” he says. And Orwasher’s shouldn’t have any problem using that.

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Brian is the editor in chief of Edible East End, Edible Long Island, Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn. He writes from his home in Sag Harbor, New York, where he and his family tend a home garden and oysters. He is also obsessed with ducks, donuts and dumplings.